10

PORTRAYING MODERNITY

Sorolla’s portraits reflect the fashion of the day. But the portrait of Elena in a bright, elegant yellow dress is also a reflection of his modern mindset.

Sorolla brought a dress for his young daughter back from Paris. It was a design created in 1907 by the inventor, set designer and textile and industrial designer Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo, and his wife Henriette Nigrin. Known as the Delphos gown, it was revolutionary as it was inspired by a male model: the tunic worn by the Greek statue of the Charioteer of Delphi (475 BC). It was also very daring, due to the sinuous and suggestive shape that fitted the body simply and comfortably. It should be borne in mind that women still wore corsets at that time, and the dress became an emblem of women’s liberation and a milestone in the history of fashion.

The dress is a pleated silk tunic in bright colours and different shades that change according to the light and movement. Moreover, each model was unique and adhered to methods and techniques that are still kept secret to this day. Fortuny’s interest in light and colour no doubt fascinated Sorolla, who gave it to his daughter as a gift when she was only 14 years old.